Why this alternative acne treatment convinced me to ditch retinoids

If you've got adult acne, you've probably tried your fair share of treatments. From various retinoids to Benzoyl Peroxide to dosing up on hormonal contraceptives, there's plenty of potential solutions, but zero magic bullets. Here's what happened when one WH contributor went in for an alternative, plant-based acne treatment, known as ‘bakuchiol.'

I'm sat in a fancy salon's swivel chair, feeling the weight of the hairdresser's scissors clip away my overgrown strands. 

The cut's about more than my straggly lengths, though. I've just made a pretty wild decision and have left my life at home on England's south coast to start a new gig over the ocean in Canada. Feeling like I need to mark this with something, I've found myself here, for a sort of symbolic shearing to celebrate my new life. 

But, as I make eye contact with myself in the balmily-lit mirror, it's not the bright blonde being merrily chopped off that I focus on. It's my skin. After my teenage years and early twenties were spent skin issue-free, I'm struck by the fact that adult acne has very much taken over my complexion.

Putting my angry, red dermis down to stress caused by my ditching stability and friends for a walk on the precarious side in a country where I didn't know a soul, I hope it will fade as I settle. But, no dice.

So, in come the solutions. Benzoyl Peroxide gel, facials, the combined oral contraceptive pill, diets, and expensive make-up, to name a few. Despite sinking plenty of my disposable into the issue, a lot of the stuff I try exacerbates my increasingly sore and blemish-riddled face.

The best solution for acne?

A trip to the doctor sees me prescribed Differin Cream. This contains adapalene, a type of retinoid, which unblocks pores and promotes faster cell turnover, targeting acne at the source before blemishes have a chance to form. I'm advised to apply a thin layer once daily before bed for a period of two months.

It seems to be a magic bullet. But, as I hit the few weeks deep mark, irritation starts to spread and what starts as a small patch of dryness quickly turns to a mass of peeling skin, coupled with a painful burning sensation.

WLTM: an alternative acne treatment

As I'm ready to scream in frustration that retinoids – typically used in the fight against acne in varying strengths, right the way up to the controversial Roaccutane – were not going to sort me out, a friend fills me in on ‘bakuchiol.'

Pronounced 'back-ooh-chee-all,' this is a non-synthetic (AKA natural) solution derived from the Indian babchi plant. It's been on the Ayurvedic medicine scene for centuries thanks to its skin-soothing properties.

But is this alternative acne treatment legit?

'Bakuchiol is an effective alternative to retinoids in the fight against acne. It’s a plant-derived compound and is much better tolerated than retinoids,’ says Dr Asif Hussein, Senior Clinical Lecturer at London’s Queen Mary University, who specialises in cosmetic dermatology and laser surgery.

‘Products containing retinoids are known to trigger redness, irritation, dryness, itching and flaking. Dermatologists call this reaction retinoid dermatitis – and it is a well-understood consequence of retinoid usage.'

Dr Hussein adds that although these side effects tend to settle the longer you’re on your prescription, it still creates an unpleasant hurdle to overcome. ‘For many consumers this can be unacceptable, and often leads to them abandoning the use of an otherwise valuable skincare ingredient,’ he says.

Making the switch to alternative acne treatments

Before deciding to stop using my prescription cream, I chat with my doctor, who doesn't see any issues with me trying bakuchiol products.

But aesthetic doctor and leading skin specialist, Dr David Jack, advises that you do speak to your medical pro before making the swap, regardless. ‘Bakuchiol products are associated with more redness than retinoids, despite the lower risk of your skin scaling and flaking,’ he says.

‘This can be a consideration for those who have conditions that are associated with redness such as rosacea. It is worth chatting to your dermatologist about this if you have concerns.’

Now that I'm ready to hop on the alternative acne treatment bandwagon, a friend recommends a serum she’d used, which I manage to track down in Sephora.

Alternative acne treatments: the verdict

The serum quickly reduces the appearance of my scarring, particularly around my chin area, as well as evening out my reddish skin tone. It also receives top marks for being vegan, non-toxic and paraben-free.

Aside from the aesthetic improvement, it’s comforting to know that I don’t need to take a hormone-altering pill, break the bank buying designer foundation, or to endure the misfortune of reptile skin in pursuit of a spot-free face.My opinion, at the end of my skincare saga? If the big 'R' is getting you down, chat to your doctor or derm about taking a walk on the bakuchiol side. No, there's no magic bullet, but it could be what works for you.

Originally written for Women’s Health